Your Jewellery Jargon Dictionary D-H
This article is the second part of our jewellery jargon buster, a dictionary of words often used in jewellery. When you know the terms used, you will know more about jewellery and be able to make better choices about the diamond jewellery in which you invest.
So, let's get to it!
Dangle Earrings
An earring style where the earring hangs below the earlobe's level and hangs free to move as the wearer's head moves gives an attractive, eye-catching effect.
Depth
Regarding gemstones, depth is the measurement of a gem, often a diamond, from the top (table) to the base (culet).
Diameter
Regarding gemstones, the diameter is the width, at the broadest point, of the stone.
Diamond-Cut Chain
This is a technique of cutting sharp edges into the chain's surface, making the chain links catch the light and flash.
Dispersion
A diamond's dispersion is its ability to refract light into its colours; the degree of dispersion depends on the cut's quality and the gem's clarity.
Drop Earrings
An earring style where the earring hangs below the wearer's earlobe but does not move freely.
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Ear Trim
An earring that is designed to follow the contours of the wearer's ear.
Ear Wire
The wire used to hold pierced earrings in place. There are several styles including, French hooks, lever backs and kidneys.
Earring
Jewellery designed to be worn on the earlobe or sometimes the edge of the ear. Many styles of earring include cluster, chandelier, dangle, drop, ear trim, earring jacket, hoop, hinged, lever back, and stud.
Edwardian
A style of jewellery popular from around 1900 to 1914. Edwardian style jewellery is recognisable for lace-like filigree with mill grain settings for diamonds. Platinum was the metal of choice for this style because its strength made it ideal for delicate, airy designs.
Engagement Ring
A ring that is typically given by a man to a woman when he proposes marriage. In most western countries, an engagement ring is worn on the fourth finger next to the left hand's little finger. The ring signifies that the woman is engaged to be married.
Engraving
The process of cutting a design into metal or another hard surface.
Eternity Ring/Band
A ring set with one or more rows of gemstones, often diamonds, that encircle the whole band. The complete circle of gems signifies eternity and permanence of love and affection.
Facets
Facets are the flat polished surfaces of gemstones that give a gemstone, often a diamond, its sparkle and brilliance.
Family Jewellery
A piece of jewellery purchased or created that has great significance to the family members. Often these pieces use birthstones to represent the members of the family.
Fancy Jewellery
A term to describe trendy, stylish jeweller, especially where the design is fun and innovative. Fancy jewellery is not likely to become a classic piece but is usually a fashion statement or a conversation starter.
Fancy Wedding Ring
A wedding ring that is more intricate and decorative than a plain traditional wedding ring.
Filigree
Filigree is ornamental metalwork made using thing wires arranged into intricate patterns of precious metal.
Finish
A decorative surface texture applied to jewellery to enhance its appearance.
Fire
Fire is dispersed light with all the rainbow colours that flash as light falls onto a faceted diamond.
Fishtail Setting
A gemstone setting technique where the stone has four triangular corners cut from the shank of the setting. The corners look like the tail of a fish when looking along the finger to the ring's back or front.
Flush Set
A setting technique where the metal from the ring is pushed over the gemstone leaving only the top of the gem exposed.
Freeform
A design style with a flowing asymmetrical shape.
Gallery Rail
A metal rim on a setting located below the girdle of a gemstone.
Gemstone
A mineral, often a crystal, that is rare and beautiful enough to be used in jewellery.
Gemstone/Diamond Shape
The outline form of a gemstone such as round, pillow, baguette and many more. It should not be confused with the pattern of facets cut onto the jewel.
Genuine Stone
A gemstone produced by nature without human treatment or enhancement except for shaping, cutting, and polishing.
Girdle
The narrow edge of a gemstone separating the upper and lower portions of a faceted gem.
Gold
A yellow metal that is considered precious due to its rarity and valued in jewellery because it will not oxidise or corrode. It is easily formed into attractive and durable shapes.
Gram
A gram is a metric unit of weight. 1000 grams equal a kilogram. One ounce (troy weight) is equal to 3.10 grams.
Guilloche
A decorative technique where intricate and very precise patterns are engraved by machine into metal. The patterns thus engraved imitate those previously done at high cost and only by hand.
Half Bezel Setting
A secure method for mounting precious stones onto jewellery. A band of precious metal encircles part of the gemstone and is pushed over the stone to hold it securely in place. While secure, this form of setting tends to reduce the brilliance of the stone it holds as it reduces light transmission.
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Hallmark
A set of marks stamped or sometimes laser-etched into a precious metal to indicate the purity of the precious metal, the assaying organisation's identity, the date, and the sponsor (manufacturer/importer/retailer, etc.) of the item. This information applies to UK hallmarks. Other countries have slight variations on the information on the hallmark. In the UK, gold, silver, platinum and palladium are all hallmarked when used in jewellery items above a minimum weight.
Halo
A style of jewellery where smaller gemstones surround a large central stone. Where different coloured gemstones are used, this can enhance the contrast and sparkle of the visual effect. If all the same colour diamonds are used, the technique can improve the sparkle and give an impression of a larger single diamond.
Head (or setting)
The metal part of the jewellery that holds the gemstone in place on the piece of jewellery. The terms head and setting are interchangeable.
Hoop Earring
A circular earring style. Usually, the hoop forms a complete circle but can also have a gap in the loop. A hoop earring can be small or large. Larger types are often formed from wire.
Huggie Earring
A variation of the hoop earring but much smaller, it encircles the earlobe and is thicker than a standard hoop. The effect is that the earring 'hugs' the earlobe. This style usually has a hinge to enable the earring to be put on and taken off easily.
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Hypo-Allergenic
Hypo-allergenic jewellery is made from metals that cause fewer adverse skin reactions than some other types. The most common allergic metal is nickel, often used in silver and white gold. Platinum is often considered hypo-allergenic, so it is a good choice for those who suffer from jewellery-related skin allergies.
Please look out for our next jewellery jargon buster article. In the meantime please look at our diamond jewellery collections - we hope that you will be inspired by the work of our British designers and craftsmen!
